Chasing Giants: My Solo Trek Through the Himalayas

Stan Johnsen

July 18, 2025

Just descended from the roof of the world, and I’m still catching my breath – literally and figuratively. Three weeks in Nepal’s Himalayas changed everything I thought I knew about adventure, resilience, and what the human spirit can achieve.

The Journey Begins: Kathmandu Chaos

Stepped off the plane in Kathmandu into a sensory overload of honking motorcycles, incense smoke, and organized chaos. The streets pulse with life – prayer flags flutter overhead while vendors hawk everything from yak cheese to knock-off North Face gear.

Spent two days exploring the ancient temples of Bhaktapur and Patan, marveling at intricate wood carvings that have survived centuries of earthquakes. The smell of momos steaming in street-side stalls became my constant companion, along with the sweetest milk tea I’ve ever tasted.

Reality check: Altitude sickness is real, folks. Even at Kathmandu’s 4,600 feet, I felt the difference. Thank goodness I listened to my guide about taking it slow.

Days 3-8: The Annapurna Circuit – A Test of Will

The real adventure began with a bone-rattling jeep ride to Besisahar, where the trek officially starts. My backpack felt impossibly heavy, my boots were untested, and I questioned every life choice that led me to this moment.

The first few days were pure magic. Terraced rice fields cascaded down mountainsides like nature’s own staircase. Villages appeared around every corner, each one more picturesque than the last. Kids ran alongside me shouting “Namaste!” with infectious grins.

By day four, the landscape shifted dramatically. Gone were the lush valleys, replaced by rugged alpine terrain where every breath required effort. The teahouses became lifelines – simple lodges where trekkers from around the world shared stories over dal bhat and raksi.

Lesson learned: Your body is capable of far more than your mind believes. When I thought I couldn’t take another step, somehow I always found one more.

The Big Challenge: Thorong La Pass (17,769 feet)

Day eight was the monster – crossing Thorong La Pass, the highest point of the circuit. Started at 4 AM in complete darkness, headlamp cutting through thin air that felt more like breathing through a straw.

The ascent was brutal. Every twenty steps required a rest. My water bottles froze solid despite being inside my jacket. The wind was relentless, and for the first time, I genuinely wondered if I’d made a terrible mistake.

But then… sunrise. The peaks around me ignited in shades of pink and gold that no camera could capture. Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, and Machapuchare stood like ancient guardians, their snow-covered faces catching the first light.

Reaching the pass was emotional. Prayer flags snapped in the wind, and I found myself crying – from exhaustion, from joy, from the sheer magnitude of what I’d accomplished.

Unforgettable moment: Sharing a thermos of hot tea with a 70-year-old Nepali woman who had just completed the same climb. Her smile said everything about the human spirit.

Days 9-12: Sacred Ground in Muktinath

Descended to Muktinath, one of the most sacred sites for both Hindus and Buddhists. The temple complex sits at 12,000 feet, surrounded by the Mustang desert landscape that feels more like Tibet than Nepal.

The contrast was stunning – from the lush green valleys of the early trek to this stark, wind-swept plateau where ancient pilgrims have journeyed for centuries. The night sky here was unlike anything I’d ever seen. No light pollution, just the Milky Way stretching across the heavens like a cosmic river.

Spent hours talking with fellow trekkers and local guides around the fire, sharing stories and dreams. There’s something about high altitude that strips away pretense and gets to the heart of who we really are.

Days 13-18: The Everest Base Camp Detour

Couldn’t leave Nepal without attempting the legendary Everest Base Camp trek. Flew from Pokhara to Lukla (terrifying landing strip carved into a mountainside) and immediately knew this would be different.

The Khumbu region is raw, wild, and utterly magnificent. Sherpa villages cling to impossible slopes, while massive peaks dominate every view. The trail follows ancient trade routes where yaks still carry supplies to remote settlements.

Namche Bazaar felt like a mountain metropolis – wifi, cappuccinos, and gear shops at 11,000 feet. The acclimatization days were crucial, allowing my body to adjust while exploring monasteries and meeting climbers preparing for Everest attempts.

Reality check #2: Altitude sickness hit me hard at Dingboche (14,200 feet). Splitting headaches and nausea forced a rest day, humbling reminder that the mountains demand respect.

The Final Push: Base Camp at 17,600 feet

The last stretch to Everest Base Camp was the most challenging hiking I’ve ever done. The Khumbu Glacier’s terminal moraine is a moonscape of rocks and ice, with prayer flags marking the way.

Base Camp itself was surprisingly crowded – colorful tents dotting the glacier, climbers from around the world preparing for their summit attempts. Standing there, looking up at the Khumbu Icefall and the massive pyramid of Everest beyond, felt surreal.

I didn’t climb Everest, but I touched the same rocks, breathed the same thin air, and felt the same sense of awe that draws adventurers from around the globe.

Coming Down: Reflections at Lower Altitude

The descent was bittersweet. Every step took me further from the mountains that had become my temporary home. The air grew thicker, the trees returned, and slowly, civilization crept back in.

But something had changed. The mountains strip away everything unnecessary and show you what really matters. Community, simplicity, the incredible strength of the human spirit, and the profound beauty of our planet.

What I Learned

Nepal taught me that adventure isn’t just about conquering peaks or checking items off a bucket list. It’s about pushing beyond your comfort zone, connecting with people whose lives are completely different from yours, and discovering that you’re capable of far more than you imagined.

The mountains are still calling. Next year, I’m thinking about attempting Island Peak or maybe exploring the remote Mustang region. Once you’ve walked among giants, everything else feels possible.

 

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